Middle Eastern Mezze from the Grill, featuring Smoky Baba Ganoush

I love meals that consist of a variety of nibbles: bento boxes with their little jewel-box compartments of rice and veggies and pickles; rich and exciting dim sum served in little bamboo steamers from rolling carts; kaleidoscopic tapas spreads full of surprising flavors; and mezze, the rather less well-known Middle Eastern style of shared small-plate dining.

Eating this way is a delight, especially with friends. Few dining styles are more convivial – dishes are passed, portions carefully shared so everyone gets a taste. Wine flows, as does conversation. Putting together a spread like this is surprisingly fun too. For one thing, I get to use my collection of little dishes and bowls. But also, it’s a chance to be creative without working too hard.

The key to an easy tapas or mezze spread is this: Only cook a couple of items. Let them be the centerpiece, then surround them with a tapestry of bread, cheese, olives, nuts, pickles, crackers, and whatever else your imagination (and your pantry) comes up with. Put them in pretty little bowls and baskets and no one will even notice that most of the spread came out of bottles and jars. They’ll gasp at the bounty and then be engrossed in tearing off bites of bread, reaching across the table for the almonds, cutting wedges of cheese, pouring each other more wine, and having a wonderful time.

Last week I had on hand some lovely local eggplant and yellow squash – including an eggplant from my own garden – and a hankering for Middle Eastern food. Also, a desire not to heat up my house with cooking. I recalled that some of the best baba ganoush I’d ever made used the grill to cook the eggplant, and my favorite way with zucchini is on the grill. Quickly, a plan formed.

I tossed all the vegetables on the preheated, medium-hot grill whole and let them roast, turning them occasionally to keep them from burning. I cooked the eggplant until the skins charred and the flesh inside collapsed when pressed with tongs – interestingly, this took much less time for the long Asian eggplant from my garden than for the small Italian-style eggplants from the farmer’s market – and the yellow squash until they seemed tender when pressed. Both took about the same amount of time, probably 10 to 15 minutes.

After letting the vegetables cool until I could handle them, I sliced the squash and tossed it with salt, olive oil, garlic, chopped parsley and mint, and just a splash of lemon juice. The flavors of each ingredient make a big difference in a preparation this simple, so only try it with really fresh squash and good, tasty olive oil.

I pulled the skin from the eggplant – an easy step if the eggplant is cooked thoroughly – and put it in the food processor with a clove of garlic, a tablespoon or two of tahini and two or three of olive oil, salt, and a bit of lemon juice, and whirred it until it was completely smooth. The result was some of the best baba ganoush I’ve ever had. The flavor was delicate and smoky, the texture incredibly silky. Fresh young eggplant probably had a lot to do with the latter (as well as, I imagine, a liberal hand with the tahini and oil). To boost the smoky flavor, I also added a sprinkle of smoked paprika – you could use regular paprika or leave it out. A dash of cayenne would also be a nice addition.

And that was it! I heated a few store-bought flatbreads on the warm grill and put them on the table with a bowl of olives, one of Marcona almonds, and one of Greek yogurt flavored with lemon juice, garlic, and mint (okay, so maybe I cooked three things), and a plate of cheese. A feast fit for royalty, and with leisurely preparation.

I think these two dishes are best done to taste, so I’m not giving exact quantities in these recipes. If in doubt, start with less seasoning and add more to taste. One of my favorite parts of cooking is adding and tasting and adjusting until everything is just right. Play!

Smoky Baba Ganoush

Fresh young eggplant
Garlic
A tablespoon or two of tahini
Two or several tablespoons of good-quality olive oil
Lemon juice
Salt
Smoked paprika or cayenne, optional

Roast the eggplant on a medium-hot grill until blackened. It should collapse when pressed lightly with tongs. Let cool; peel and add flesh to food processor, along with all other ingredients to taste. Process until completely smooth (unless you like it with more texture, of course). Adjust seasonings to taste – it always takes me at least four flavor adjustments to be content. Spoon into a bowl and serve with bread or pita chips for dipping.

Simple Grilled Squash Salad

Best-quality yellow summer squash
A clove or two of garlic
Salt
Very tasty olive oil
Pepper
A squeeze of lemon juice
Chopped herbs – parsley, mint, marjoram, savory, or what’s on hand – if desired

Grill the squash on a medium-hot grill until tender to the touch or until a knife poked into them meets very little resistance. Let cool; slice and mix with crushed or minced garlic, salt, and enough olive oil to lubricate them nicely but not leave them swimming. (Start with a tablespoon or two.) Finish with freshly ground pepper, lemon to taste, and a tablespoon or three of chopped herbs, if using. Serve at room temperature or slightly warm.
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