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Sous Vide Shrimp in the Kitchen Sink

April 17, 2013 by Kristin Satterlee 2 Comments

Arguably the most coveted object of 2012 for the true cooking geek was Nathan Myhrvold’s mini-opus, Modernist Cuisine at Home. For most cookbook authors, a two-volume (one hardcover with gorgeous photos, one spiral-bound recipe book with special spillproof paper), 11-pound, $100 cookbook would be an opus. But not for Microsoft geek and multi-multi-millionaire Myhrvold; Modernist Cuisine at Home is the stripped-down, simplified home version of his 2400-page, 50-pound, $500 cookbook Modernist Cuisine.
How coveted is that six-volume set? Well, when a group of professional chefs was offered one as a prize on Top Chef, there were more exclamations of excitement than when they were offered a thousand dollars. (Which doesn’t make mathematical sense, but there you have it.)
Because my sweetheart is amazing, I am one of the lucky home cooks to own a copy of Modernist Cuisine at Home. I’ve been working my way through it since Christmas. A few weeks ago, I was perusing the section on sous vide cooking – a very trendy technique that cooks food gently in bags in a water bath – when it caught my eye that some seafood could be cooked at temperatures low enough, and quickly enough, to accomplish in a large pot in the kitchen sink.
All that was required was a plastic bag with a seal, a large pot, and a good thermometer. I have all of those. So I set to work. According to the little graph in the book, if you want your shrimp cooked tender – which of course I do – you cook them for 7 minutes in 140-degree water. Easy-peasy.

It turned out to be slightly more difficult than I expected, because my hot water wasn’t quite hot enough. Getting my large Dutch oven full of 140-degree water took about ten minutes, and lots of supplementation from my electric kettle. I slipped in a FoodSaver bag – a Ziploc will work, but I saw the handheld FoodSaver pump at Target and couldn’t resist – full of room-temperature shrimp and a little butter and salt, and waited seven minutes, occasionally checking the temperature and adjusting it a degree. That level of watchfulness was probably unnecessary, but I was hovering anyway, watching as the liquid in the bag around the shrimp magically turned white. Cooking. In my sink.

After seven minutes, I dropped the bag into ice water to stop the cooking, then pulled out a shrimp. Wow. They were wonderful. Cooked through but ever-so-slightly translucent, perfectly tender, and fantastically sweet and flavorful – like the very best lobster. The tenderness makes sense, as they were cooked so gently, but why the depth of flavor? I’m guessing it’s because the juices are held close to the shrimp and reabsorbed instead of being leached out into the cooking water or evaporated off a hot pan. Whatever the reason – and it wasn’t that they were of inherently stellar quality, as they were just from Trader Joe’s freezer section – they may have been the best shrimp I’ve ever eaten.

That evening I used the shrimp to top a simple arugula salad with lemon dressing, and their delicate sweetness was fabulous against the peppery snap of the greens and the tartness of the dressing.

Is this the simplest way to cook shrimp? No – a quick boil or pan-fry is more familiar, and thus easier. But I’m sure it’s the simplest, most foolproof way to get shrimp of this juicy, sweet, tender perfection.

Sous Vide Shrimp in the Kitchen Sink

1/2 to 1 pound shelled shrimp, at room temperature
1 tablespoon butter, optional
Salt and pepper

Place all ingredients in a zip-top plastic bag or vacuum bag, in as close to one layer as possible. For vacuum bag, follow manufacturer’s instructions to seal. If using a zip-top bag, seal halfway, then press out as much air as you can by dipping the bag in a tub of water or sliding it down the edge of your counter. Seal.

Fill a very large pot with 140-degree water. Tap water may suffice; if it’s not hot enough, add boiling water from a teakettle, stirring to circulate, until it reaches 140 degrees.

Drop bagged shrimp in hot water. Leave them 7 minutes. Remove bag. If eating the shrimp warm, use immediately; otherwise, drop the bag in ice water to chill quickly, then store in refrigerator.

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Filed Under: Recipes, Seafood, Tools Tagged With: cookbooks, modernist cuisine, seafood, shrimp, technique

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Comments

  1. Unfussy Epicure says

    April 17, 2013 at 10:31 pm

    This comment has been removed by the author.

  2. Buena says

    April 17, 2013 at 9:02 pm

    OMG…that sounds wonderful!

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